Touching Pee-pees in the Dark and Adventures in Airplane Bonding

Our first really big pane is about to come off of the line. I guess it is easy to see that I was slacking. Not really, just got side-lined by a bunch of stuff.

Today, I wanted to talk about the bonding experiences. We are pretty good with the cheap and cheerful 60min and 90min epoxies available from Loctite. In general, they are worthy of their cost. For the most part:

•  they get it done
•  are easy to clean
• decent finish that is sandable, but micro-balloons help immensely
• and wet chemistry does not rip the skin off of your hands

 The other side of the coin is that :

• they are not super hard
•  sometimes leave a sticky surface which needs hand washing a bunch of times to get the surface clean
• cheap means heavy
• in the warm, humid air of Florida sometimes the pot runs really fast.

It is exciting to see it melt through two cups and run epoxy all over your surface and drip down your leg. The steam is cute on a  100% humidity afternoon. Around here, it is not uncommon to see rising off of your sneakers, but it is exciting to see rising off of your freshly-laid skin. It still burns your skin ... boiling water is hot... If the cup gets to be hot to the touch, or the epoxy runs really fast then you only have a few more minutes before the epoxy fixes.

We have some other adhesives and layup chemistries used by the "pros". Ok, yikes. There are enough flames, warning symbols and ventilation requirements that we honesty did not have the facilities to use them. However, some basic tests show that the stuff from Aircraft Spruce is really hard and easy to sand. It stuck to everything , was hard to get off of skin, and 10:4 is not an easy ratio to eyeball. So it needs a scale and  a fan to pull air away. I can only say it must be best with vacuum-bagged molds and infusion systems.

I would suggest using either, just know what you are getting into. With any bonding system, rough your bond area with steel wool, clean your area with a clean cloth and alcohol. Cleaning with alcohol is to pick up any grease, dust, grime and hair. Test your bond between scrap pieces of material.

Hairspray Trick Addendum

If you are reading more about using hairspray to pre-wet rc models before they are glasses...

This works great with balsa models. It seems to be a pretty reproducible effect on wood because the wood absorbs some of the hairspray. The wood keeps the spray wetter so it does not dry out as fast. Fast forward to a foam model. Foam does not absorb any liquid, relatively speaking. Raw hairspray dries really quickly. This is a problem, we have found in many wrecked sets of cloth that if the hairspray polymerizes past a certain (not discussed in this article) point, the epoxy will not wet the surface.

What it does do is bunch up the glass when you spread the resin. Pretty quickly you can see that something is wrong because it just does not behave. You cannot straighten out the new wrinkles fast enough to get in front of it. The weight of the resin does not hold down the old wrinkles,and you make a mess. If this starts happening, we just yank off the damaged glass and toss it. Yeah, it seems wrong at the time, but we have no idea how to clean it. Always looking for hints on that one.

After the glass is tossed, we roller the wet surface of the model to spread the remnant epoxy. That is just to help fill in a pockets or spread any runs. It just air-dries after that, just leave it. When it is dry, remeasure your glass and do it again.

All in all, the hairspray trick rocks, on wooden models. Not so good on foamies.

Remember try to do your epoxy work in warm or hot conditions at the lowest allowable humidities. Yesterday, a thunderstorm snuck up on us and we had a very energetic pot of Loctite 60min epoxy. It fumed and melted several  plastic cups and unbound the wax on a paper coffee cup in the span of 1min. Finally, it melted several plastic shopping bags while we ran cold water over it.

Basic chemistry class says, take the heat away from exothermic (heat generating) reactions to slow or reduce them. Live with a chemist and you know these things.

Adventures in Composites: A Bright Idea

So after many months of gnawing on how to reduce the construction time of uavs and model aircraft, we finally decided to watch a million youtube movies. Sating ourselves on anything that had anything to do with composite lay ups we set off onto our own project. The first version of this idea is a proof of concept experiment rather than a real product. Aircraft Spruce sent us some great almost silken 2.5oz/yd^2 fiberglass.

This is an experiment in how to create multi-cell,internal structure in composite structures. If an airframe just needs a few reinforcements, that would go a long way to reducing the production costs of a unit model. Having built several models now with varying levels of success. It is clear, the longer it takes to produce a model, the more likely it will have issues. It could be as simple as being heavy, due to liberal adhesive use. Or just general issues such as fiber breakage or delaminations due to mis drilling or toughness issues in large unsupported panels.

After watching many others' techniques and lots of research into how successful airframes are created. It is about reducing the handling of each piece. The best paint jobs are ruined by finger prints, finishes scratched, just because they had the most chances to get ruined before delivery. Our concept centered around simple low curvature lay ups, that could be lain individual. Then stiffeners installed before the final layers are put down. Each mold would then be set to cure. Final assembly, would be put in place in the planes perpendicular to the molds to join the sides together and to increase the technical stiffness of the airframe.

Our design required a center web and some easy radii transitioning each of the perpendicular webs. We sectioned our fuselage to have three dorsal access bays. The fuselage was then bisected so that we had two symmetric halves and three continuous doors. Empennages and noses are difficult to build and to shape. There is always an issue with the symmetry or the strain in the materials during the curing process. Careful attention was paid to each of these areas to reduce the known issues that had ruined some of our previous projects.

Our split molds were then mounted to three inch styrofoam wall insulation. Not the ball stuff, this is the small,closed-cell material with wood glue. Everything was painted several times with latex enamel. The enamel did not stick during the first few coats. It probably has to do with the static charge that built up during the work. There was an eventual critical coating area that finally whetted the surface. Once the surface finally whetted, the coats proceeded quickly.

We found several movies about hand-lain composites that kind of tipped us off on how not to complicate our chemistry. They all had a few things in common, latex paint and paste wax as the sealant and release agents. After fourth coat of latex paint, Johnson's paste wax was applied liberally and hand-buffed to a shine. Each mold and the foam several inches (3-4") from the model was covered and buffed.

Then it was all let rest for a day.

Adventures in Composites: Two Bogans and the Art of the Lay... Up

After a year of sitting, our polyester resin had spoiled. So we contacted some people and they said you could do it with just about any medium cure time epoxy. Out into the proper disposal container for petro-chemical waste. Yeah, I went there. Off to the local hardware shop for some epoxy. We bought several batches of 60 min epoxy. Some of the information that our friends told us suggested that we could use isopropyl alcohol to help keep the viscosity of the epoxy down as it is laid up.

Information like this is when it gets exciting. We found out a few things. You can paint the alcohol onto a layer to help flow the epoxy and to reduce the bubbles and flatten wrinkles. I would suggest that pour some alcohol into a cup and paint it on where you need it. Each layup will be different so it is hard to say where you would have issues.

There were some bubble generators in the seam where the semi-mold met the backing. This is probably pretty obvious, but it was due to training air under the resin laden cloth. Our mold also had several regions with nearly perpendicular sections which were hard to wet. In areas like that, I would suggest liberally pre-painting. Be careful not to pool the resin in the bottom since that is not where you want the part to be strong. Another observation was to make sure that when each layer is put down, both people should work in the same direction. Do not work the resin from the nose and the tail. It makes wrinkles and other defects.

It is very important to make sure that each layer has as much of the resin out, or at least even distributed as possible. This means that all of the bubbles, wrinkles and puddles need to be worked toward the edge of the layup. A roller and brushes are the weapons of choice for this work. The handle edges are great for wringing out excess resin from tight radii.