Hairspray Trick Addendum

If you are reading more about using hairspray to pre-wet rc models before they are glasses...

This works great with balsa models. It seems to be a pretty reproducible effect on wood because the wood absorbs some of the hairspray. The wood keeps the spray wetter so it does not dry out as fast. Fast forward to a foam model. Foam does not absorb any liquid, relatively speaking. Raw hairspray dries really quickly. This is a problem, we have found in many wrecked sets of cloth that if the hairspray polymerizes past a certain (not discussed in this article) point, the epoxy will not wet the surface.

What it does do is bunch up the glass when you spread the resin. Pretty quickly you can see that something is wrong because it just does not behave. You cannot straighten out the new wrinkles fast enough to get in front of it. The weight of the resin does not hold down the old wrinkles,and you make a mess. If this starts happening, we just yank off the damaged glass and toss it. Yeah, it seems wrong at the time, but we have no idea how to clean it. Always looking for hints on that one.

After the glass is tossed, we roller the wet surface of the model to spread the remnant epoxy. That is just to help fill in a pockets or spread any runs. It just air-dries after that, just leave it. When it is dry, remeasure your glass and do it again.

All in all, the hairspray trick rocks, on wooden models. Not so good on foamies.

Remember try to do your epoxy work in warm or hot conditions at the lowest allowable humidities. Yesterday, a thunderstorm snuck up on us and we had a very energetic pot of Loctite 60min epoxy. It fumed and melted several  plastic cups and unbound the wax on a paper coffee cup in the span of 1min. Finally, it melted several plastic shopping bags while we ran cold water over it.

Basic chemistry class says, take the heat away from exothermic (heat generating) reactions to slow or reduce them. Live with a chemist and you know these things.

Practical Composites: Fiberglass Over Wood

We are putting together some good pieces for everyone see how we are doing it. The big tip that we can tell everyone is hair spray. It is too funny to think of either of us ever sing hairspray. One has been bald for half of his life, and I have never been a big coiffure kind of guy.

The pictures that I am including are of a model that is 57" (143cm) x 6" (15cm)  wide and 4" (10cm) tall.

                       

The glass sued is standard s-glass, 2oz per yd glass from Aircraft Spruce . Our experience shows for fuselages, two plies is more than enough for fuselages. Make sure that your plies are pig enough to cover all of the piece and hang over about an inch (2-3cm). More than that makes it hard to support the piece, the fabric keeps pulling away from the edge  or it gets tangled.

Apply the hairspray liberally to wet the surface of the cloth, then use a foam roller to spread the spray and wet all of the glass. It takes a few minutes to work the whole surface. When it dries, it will feel more like paper than silk.

Having learned the hard way. You can let these dry for 15min or so, until they are not tacky to touch. However, do NOT let them dry for lunch and a trip to the hobby shop. The hair spray dries too much and coats the glass so that the resin does not stick. That is bad, it will just wreck your finish and everything will look all orange peel or like bubble city.

I hope this helps with your projects.

Czech Book

Hey everyone,

I have been getting a lot of requests recently about my book that I wrote in Czech about life in Central and Eastern Europe. I have been posting it piecewise on my other blog "So Little Time" here.It has received many positive reviews and some libel, you can't win them all. If you want it in a more complete book-like form, let me know.

Thanks,
Adam

The Big Babies

We are about to go flying! I hope within the month we are airborne with ten pounds of dead weight. It is a big day. After several years, we are turning the corner. It was not easy, and I would like to thank my folks and friends for sticking with me. Inventorship is far from an easy process. Now it is time to give birth to revenue ;)

In order to continue a beloved American tradition, each of our factory Big Babies will have unique nose art. I have been drawing for months to get this many pictures together. I am sure if you know me and the project, you probably know each of them. So I will not spend much time explaining them, I hope that everyone likes them. I have shirts available on the cafe press site. I think that they really bring out the smile in me when I talk about the planes, or the women who inspired them.

More building on a budget tips

I have been speaking with many people recently about how they build their uav's and larger-scale working aircraft. We were going down the balsa road, which is not so bad. It makes a pretty stiff structure with relatively inexpensive materials. However balsa is graded and strong, light wood is not easy to find nor is it cheap. You can easily run up $300-500/board foot. That is a lot of balsa, I know especially in 3" strips. However, you get the idea that this is not a cheap way to go.

We have been using kiln stabilized wood and it is making a decent product. There have been some issues balancing the stresses in the airframe. Traditional methods more or less work to relax them. My consultations with other people in the community leads me to believe that there may be better construction techniques. The system that we have uses balsa and then fiber glass on top. Our main issue is that balsa takes so long to lay up. To do a good job, it could take upwards of 3-4 weeks of concerted effort to get everything pinned and glued, sanded and filled, sealed and prepped. It is a big job, especially on bigger models with large spans.

OMG the twist, you will make lots of little weights and hooks to untwist your larger pieces as well. In some ways it is a terrifying process for the beginner. It is not hard to do, it can be terrible to do well.Blah blah, no whining. The others use mostly styrofoam cores covered in composites. I have been experimenting this weekend with it too. I have found that you can have a pretty good product with almost no invested time. My realization is that the cheap epoxies available from the hardware store, are easy to handle, water washable, but are way to soft-cured. For these applications, an epoxy chemistry that cures with a hard surface is better than a softer one.

I assume that epoxy chemistries with harder fixing strengths are less easy to handle. We have made several layups and this really is the case. In Florida, it is hard to get away from the humidity and large swings in it. So we lay up outside and bring the layups inside the air-conditioned house. That seems to help even out the handling properties.

The following pictures are using LocTite 60min cure epoxy, 80 oz./yd glass cloth and 3mm depron foam. There are many relief cuts in the foam to help conform to the shape of the fuselage. The pieces are masking taped together, a foam-safe CA glue would work too, but I was trying to limit the number of seams that needed to be joined. Most of the tape is to enforce the shape of the fuselage, not to hold the piece together. Both halves of the fuselage took about 2h to sheet and the glassing took about 20min for one person. It is not perfect, but it is an experiment. My illustrious helpers would assist on the final version for sure.

This model is about 5' (150cm) long and averages 6" (15cm) in diameter.

Building on a Budget

So we are working out our system to build giant-scale planes on a budget. We build mostly our own designs. It is far more challenging to wing it. I have to say that building from forms is pretty challenging, and worth it for those of you who like to do it their way.

One suggestion that I have for you guys is, lattice. Maybe that is not an obvious description. We have the most luck building complicated curvatures, when we lay out a regularly spaced net of 1/16th inch (1.5mm) balsa strips x 1/4" (6mm) . The spacing is what ever makes sense for the model. I mean, you will need to work out some of this for yourself. We find that wings are good with 6"(15cm) pieces cord-wise and 20- 25% spacings span-wise. That way there is a reasonable pitch and still a good amount of coverage. Onto this, you glue your actual skin down.  This helps reduce the actual curvatures involved, but also allows for the skin to be supported without the need of a foam internal block. Use wood glue if you are working on a Styrofoam base or CA if you are working on a compatible base. CA will eat Styrofoam, even the vapors will destroy it.

We get all of our balsa from local suppliers. Our favorite supplier is www.solarbo.com .